|Reiner’s Corner – Auto Repair Help|
|DIAGNOSE – POWER DOOR LOCKS DON’T WORK PROPERLY
Continued from Part 1
POWER DOOR LOCK REPAIR TIPS & TRICKS
Apart from what has been stated in Part 1, diagnosing problems with power door locks is not always a straightforward affair, but one way to avoid confusion and misdiagnoses is to approach the problem logically. Thus, ask yourself the following questions in the order they are presented here, address one issue at a time, and base your actions on the repair options provided in this guide for each question. Also, be sure to check if the problem is resolved after each step both to ensure a successful repair, and to save time.Are all the door locks affected?
If none of the above steps resolves the issue, suspect either a defective door lock switch, or wiring issues. Proceed as follows-
Do the affected door locks fail to work consistently?
NOTE#1: Pay particular attention to the wiring in the boot between the doorframe and the door itself. Continual flexing of the wiring as the door is opened and closed can sometimes cause conductors within the plastic insulation to fail, with no sign of the failure being apparent during a casual visual inspection of the wiring.
NOTE#2: Be sure to include the affected actuator(s) itself/themselves in this step. Measure the resistance across the two terminals on the actuator(s), and replace it/them if there is no continuity, or if the measured resistance deviates from the value(s) stated in the manual by more than a few percent.
Does the manual switch now activate the affected actuator(s)?
If one or more power door locks fail intermittently, the cause is almost always bad electrical connections. Note though that some types of intermittent failures can be extremely challenging even for professional technicians to find and repair, so if an intermittent fault is suspected, repeat all resistance and continuity tests on all wiring (while vigorously wiggling) the wiring until the fault is found and repaired. Alternatively, refer the vehicle to a competent repair facility for professional diagnosis and repair.DIAGNOSING MECHANICAL PROBLEMS
Note that many problems with power door locks involve mechanical failure(s) of one or more components, with sticking and/or binding moving parts following close behind. One particular problem, that of locks cycling rapidly (especially on some Honda models) is described below-Locks that cycle rapidly
On some applications that are fitted with door locks that use DC motors, the control module depends on a voltage spike that occurs when the actuating lever reaches a built-in stop. In these cases, the actuating lever comes to rest against a rubber stop in the switch casing at the end of its travel, which causes a voltage spike that the control module interprets as a signal that the door lock had either locked or unlocked the door.
In many cases, the built-in stop either breaks off or wears away after long use, thus failing to produce the expected voltage spike. When the control module does not receive the expected voltage spike, it either interprets the lack of the signal as a failure of the system, or more commonly, to lock and unlock the door in rapid succession for as long as power is applied to the affected actuator.
Note that the only reliable, long-term remedy for this condition is to replace the actuator with an OEM replacement part to ensure proper operation of the door lock.Actuators that move slowly
This happens more often on actuators that use DC motors and gears than on actuators that use solenoids. On geared actuators, either moving/rotating parts wear out after long use causing them to bind or stick, or the lubrication inside them dries out, causing the entire unit to bind. Replacement of the door lock actuator is the only reliable remedy.
An example of a typical geared power door lock actuator is shown below. Note the presence of lubricant on the gears that can cause the unit to fail when it dries out, or to fail due to excessive mechanical wear on one or more parts.
Other mechanical issues include mechanical linkages that bind or stick, or door latches that stick or bind due to the build-up of dust and dirt inside the mechanism. Ideally, door latches should not be lubricated, but many mechanics spray all manner of lubricants onto (and into) door latches in efforts to “cure” some power door lock issues. Since few car doors are dustproof, dust and dirt eventually combine with excess lubricant to form a sort of “glue” that inhibits the free movement of parts in the door latch mechanism.
To check if the door latch mechanism is the problem, disconnect the mechanical linkages that connect the power door lock actuator to the door latch mechanism, and activate the door lock. If the actuator now moves freely, the door latch mechanism is sticky or binding. Replacement of the door latch mechanism is the only reliable long-term solution.
NOTE: In some cases, the power door lock actuator is incorporated into the door latch mechanism. On these applications, the entire assembly must be replaced with an OEM replacement part to ensure proper operation of the locking system.
I have a 2000 Honda Crv that has locking issues. When I close the drivers side door the doors do not lock. When the door is ooen the doors lock. I have tested the door switch and found that if it is switched off as if the door is closed the door locks will not work. I am currently looking throught the wiring harness to see if there are any broken wires but I do not think there will be any. Does anyone have an idea as to what I should do?
I have RN6 year 2006 Honda Stream. All four doors have to open and close manually. Driver locking switch is not functioning. When pressing the fob to lock or open, only the signal lights blink twice but no click sound heard and door remain unlock or lock. I have already replaced fob battery, and replaced the door locking fuse. But to no avail. Please kindly advice. Thanks.
I have a 2009 Dodge Caravan where both door locks on the driver side only ie driver door and rear sliding passenger door also drivers side will not unlock via the keyless fob. Both doors including passenger side will lock via the keyless fob. The passenger side doors operate as expected with the keyless fob. So; everything seems to be related to “sticking” of both driver side doors when unlocking. Either there is not enough power to unlock, a short or other. Please help.
My keyless remote will not open doors of my 2009 Chevy Cobalt on hot days!
I have a 2014 Toyota Rav 4. The key Fob will only open the drivers door. The remaining 3 doors stay lock. I can use the Fob on the passenger side and it will open all doors. Can you help me solve this problem
I have a 2013 rogue. Changed the batteries on my fob. Passenger doors unlock and lock. Driver door remains locked.when car is in motion passenger doors lock but not driver door
door lock program problems, I have reprogramed the fobs and did get them to work , but the stopped working with in an hour also the door switches to lock and unlock stopped working as well. I have reprogramed them 3 times and did get them to work so the door fobs worked and the door switches worked for just a short time. yes the door pins went up and down, then stopped working again. confusing 2009 f150 5.4 engine 4×4 your thoughts?
Does the KEY open the door?
NO. Does the key FOB open the door?
I have a 2010 Kia Soul where the automatic doors don’t unlock. It seemed to start after an ice storm 4 years ago. I couldn’t open the doors so I waited until the next day when the ice thawed. But then I noticed that I could lock all the doors with the key fob but could only open the driver side door with it. Every once in a while, the hatch back door will open when I turn the car off but the front passenger door never opens and neither do the rear doors. Any thoughts?
Best explanation on the internet most complete and understandable with step by step how to’s Thanks
all door fuses have no power both sides 2015 honda accord
My 2013 Camry door look system fails (with key fob and manual door buttons) during freezing temperature. When failing it issues two separate alarms. The first occurs after pushing the lock button and the final alarm is 3 beeps after exiting the vehicle (to signal a key fob is still in the car). When weather improves locking magically works again. Does anyone have experience with this issue?
Have narrowed the issue to the driver’s side sliding door. If unlocked – locks don’t work and locks cycle 3 times when car put in gear. If manually leave that door locked – doors lock and the beep sound/lights flash as before. What is the cause?
2004 GMC 2500 Door Locks. All doors unlock with the key fob but the 2 rear doors won’t lock with the fob or buttons. What’s wrong?
I have the same problem. Have you found a fix?
Hi I have a 2009 Nissan Rogue. The drivers door keyless button when pushed does not unlock most of the times. I can use the FOB to lock and unlock both doors and I can lock and unlock the passenger side of the door by pushing the button on the passenger side. What do you think it could be? Thanks
Good morning I have a question. I replaced my vw polo classic rear door lock it work a couple of minutes and suddenly got locked I can’t open or unlock it at all I hear the lock open and close but it would not open outside nor inside please is there any way to get it opened
2017 Dodge Caravan. Locks work on fob or using passenger door switch. Locks DON’T work using driver door switch and same with the power window switch. Fuses checked and fine. Snow got on the driver door switches (don’t ask!). Is the issue with the door switches themselves?