|MARK’S CORNER – AUTO REPAIR HELP|
DIAGNOSING ENGINE OVERHEATING
Continued from Part 1
ENGINE OVERHEATING DIAGNOSTIC TIPS & TRICKS
It should be noted that while engine overheating cannot always be prevented or avoided, drivers are often presented with several warning signs that if observed, can limit the damage that comes with engine overheating, or even prevent a disastrous occurrence of engine overheating altogether.
However, since the causes of engine overheating are not always immediately apparent, there are several diagnostic checks most car owners can perform themselves to diagnose and identify issues/symptoms that can develop into serious engine overheating and even catastrophic engine failure if these warning signs are ignored or not attended to in a timely manner.
To help you interpret the warning signs of a potentially fatal episode of engine overheating, use the following questions (and the answers to them), to help you avoid a misdiagnosis, starting with-
Is it necessary to top off the coolant level regularly?
Since there is no such thing as a perfectly sealed engine cooling system, some coolant loss is to be expected. Typical sites of coolant loss is past radiator caps that have lost some of their spring tension, expansion tank caps that have less than perfect seals (or have not been tightened properly), seepage past hose clamps, and pinhole leaks in radiators, heater valves/heat exchangers, and the mechanical seals in water pump.
On vehicles that are in a good to reasonable state of repair, these coolant losses should not amount to much, and topping off the coolant level with a few ounces of coolant every several weeks or so should not be an issue.
However, if it becomes necessary to top off the coolant level every day, or even every few days, there is a serious leak present that MUST be found and repaired without delay to prevent the possibility of catastrophic engine failure due to fatal overheating.
Are there no visible fluid leaks?
On some applications, it can be very difficult to spot coolant leaks, but one way of making it easier is to add a few ounces of brightly colored food coloring to the cooling system when the engine is cold.
The next time the cooling system is hot and pressurized, the food coloring will leave a stain at and around the site of the leak, which makes it easier to find the exact site of the leak.
No fluid leaks, but the heat gauge shows an abnormal reading?
Note that an engine can overheat fatally even if the temperature gauge shows a below normal reading. Here is how to find out what is going on if the coolant boils out, but the gauge shows a normal, or even a below-normal reading-
WARNING: Use extreme caution during this step to avoid sustaining burns and scalds, and REMOVE ALL JEWELLERY AND LOOSE CLOTHING THAT CAN BE CAUGHT IN DRIVE BELTS, PULLEYS, AND OTHER MOVING PARTS.
WARNING: It is critically important to monitor the temperature gauge during this step, since the coolant temperature switch monitors the temperature of the coolant in the cylinder head regardless of whether the thermostat opens or not. Thus, if the bottom radiator hose does not heat up or reach the same temperature as the top hose by the time the temperature gauge indicates a normal reading, the thermostat is stuck closed, and by definition, defective.
NOTE#2: If all the other components of the cooling system work as intended, the electric radiator fan should start within a few seconds of the two radiator hoses reaching the same temperature.
WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR AT THIS POINT
NOTE #1: Coolant circulation issues always require replacement of the suspect thermostat, since thermostats are NOT repairable.
NOTE#2: While it is possible to replace the thermostat on many applications on a DIY basis, it should be noted that the procedure almost always requires removal or disassembly of other, unrelated engine components. If you have doubts about your ability to perform the replacement, the better option is to refer the vehicle to a competent repair facility for professional assistance, since it is easy to make mistakes if you are not skilled at this level of car repair.
Does the engine run rough upon start up, and then smoothes out after a few seconds?
If this happens, it is almost certain that coolant is being pushed through leak paths in the cylinder head gasket(s) or cracks in the cylinder head when the cooling system is hot and pressurized. If the leak is small, the coolant is partially burned and/or expelled through the valves when the engine is running. If however, the leak is bigger, the residual pressure in the cooling system forces coolant into the cylinders when the engine is turned off.
Thus, when the engine is started again, the coolant in the cylinders fouls the spark plugs on gasoline engines, or inhibits the combustion process on diesel engines, with the result that the engine runs rough until all the coolant is expelled from the cylinders.
Note though that in severe cases, so much coolant can collect in the cylinders that the engine can be prevented from turning over, and in some cases, connecting rods, and even crankshafts can bend or break if the engine is forced to turn over.
This type of problem is common when cylinder head gaskets blow for whatever reason, and the only reliable, long-term remedy is removal of the cylinder head(s) and replacement of the cylinder head gasket(s). Note however that this procedure is best left to professionals who have the skills and knowledge to both diagnose and recognize the root cause(s) of the blown head gasket(s), as well as additional damage to other engine parts and components that may have been caused by the initial overheating that had caused the gasket(s) to blow.
Partial head gasket failure is a major cause of engine overheating since combustion pressure is allowed to enter the cooling system, which can force the coolant out of the cooling system either past the radiator cap seal, or through a burst radiator hose.
NOTE: The surest way to detect leaking cylinder head gaskets is to perform a chemical test (or to have it performed by a competent technician) in which a reagent is brought into contact with the coolant while it is circulating through the engine. If exhaust gasses are present in the coolant, the reagent will change color, usually from blue to yellow. Unlike other tests, such as leak down and pressure tests, this chemical test can detect minute leaks in head gaskets that other tests cannot.
HOW TO RECOGNIZE A BLOWN CYLINDER GASKET
There are several ways to detect a leaking cylinder head gasket. Here is how-
Does the electric radiator fan work?
It may be that the electric cooling fan does work, but it may not rotate at the speed required to cool down the engine coolant sufficiently. In these cases, the airflow through the radiator that results from normal, high speed driving may be enough to keep the engine cool, but under slow driving conditions, both the fan’s rotational speed, and the amount of time the fan is spinning is critical for efficient engine cooling.
If you have access to a code reader, use it to measure the fan’s high and low speeds, as well as the temperature of the coolant when the fan activates. Also, scan the OBD system for codes that relate to the fan’s operation, and resolve these codes in the order in which they were stored. OBD II codes that may be present will relate to the fan motors’ speed, as well as codes that relate to the operation of the fan switch, which has the purpose of activating and deactivating the electric fan based on the temperature of the coolant.
Is the viscous fan serviceable?
Viscous fans use the shear strength of a fluid to transfer power from the hub to the fan itself, much like how a torque converter uses the shear strength of transmission fluid to transfer power from the engine to the transmission.
If over time, the fluid leak has leaked out of the viscous clutch the fan may no longer be rotating fast enough to create an adequate airflow through the radiator core. One way to test such a clutch is to see if it rotates freely if it is spun by hand. If it does rotate freely, it is defective and must be replaced. If the clutch is serviceable, it must only rotate after a considerable resistance is overcome, but in no circumstances must the fan rotate freely- not even for a partial revolution.
Replacing a viscous fan is generally a relatively straightforward affair, and most DIY mechanics should be able to perform the replacement without encountering undue difficulties.
Is the engine making strange noises?
Most causes of engine overheating are silent, in the sense that they don’t generate sounds or noises that could alert the driver to a problem with the cooling system. In fact, hissing, whistling, or whooshing noises almost always appear when the engine has already fatally overheated. These noises are the sounds of superheated steam escaping under high pressure.
Nonetheless, there is one exception to this rule, and it involves the condition of the water pump. While water pumps generally have reasonably long service lives, their support bearings start to wear out when coolant starts to leak past the mechanical seals that contain the pressurized coolant.
The first sign of a worn water pump is usually a rumbling noise that is caused by coolant in the bearings that washes out the bearings’ lubricant) that increases in intensity as the engine speed rises. Note that this is not always accompanied by coolant leaks when the engine is running. In the early stages of water pump failure, some coolant may sometimes be seen dripping from the pump only after the engine is switched off, and while the cooling system is pressurized.
If a noisy water pump is not replaced in a timely manner, the bearings can fail catastrophically at any time, which usually causes the pump internals to disintegrate, but with the added bad news that the radiator and other components can be destroyed by the drive belt when t is flung off its pulleys at high engine speeds.
OTHER CAUSES OF ENGINE OVERHEATING
It is perhaps worth noting that engine overheating can occur through causes that do not directly involve faults and defects in the cooling system. These causes could include the following-
Blocked/restricted exhaust systems
A restricted exhaust system prevents the efficient extraction of exhaust gasses, which causes excessive backpressure to develop, which in turn, can raise cylinder head temperatures on some applications. Note though that although this type of problem will usually set dedicated fault codes on OBD II equipped applications. OBD I equipped and earlier vehicles, on the other hand, do not have these “early warning systems”, and may experience serious engine overheating issues due to exhaust system issues.
Incorrectly set ignition timing
This mainly apples to older applications that have adjustable ignition timing; over advanced ignition timing can raise combustion temperatures to the point where the cooling system cannot cope with the added heat.
Driving in the wrong gear
This applies to both new and old vehicles, and particularly vehicles that have manual transmissions. Driving while in an appropriate gear, such as driving in top gear when towing uphill, lowers the engine speed, which in turn, lowers the rotation speed of the water pump. Under these conditions, the use of large throttle openings in an effort to maintain speed raises the combustion temperature, which cannot be effectively shed by the low rate at which the coolant circulates.
I did everything you said and still got a leak . I watch it piss out from middle of radiator I know it’s the radiator think it what it is should it be covered?
i have 2002 PONTIAC grand prix v6 i changed out the intake gasket .cause it was losing antifreeze .and figured out it was the intake gasket .being that the bolts were a little lose .changed out the knock sensor . and replaced the antifreeze . and it still gets hot . i noticed that the fan only come on when i turn on the ac .the t stat was changed out a few months ago.water pump was changed out 7 months ago.
I replaced the leaking radiator but the car wasn’t overheating I was losing fluids so I replaced it and now it overheats. I took out the thermostat to see if it was sticking it still overheats. Previous owner put stop leak in the old radiator and I do have a loose belt scream when it’s cold and only overheats when driving it so I think by reading your post that since before the radiator was leaking and the top hose was so taunt it was a trifecta. Only thing is though after I replaced the radiator did it overheat. I’m not a mechanic but maybe I purchased a faulty radiator. Idk but this is irritating as all hell
2014 Jeep Patriot just started overheating today. When I activate my heater fan on high heat the temp gauge starts to fall. I’m thinking my radiator fan isn’t working correctly. What say ye?